Frequently Asked Questions
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Yes. Our foundation application will control the Hobo spider as well as other spiders and insects. However, we cannot spray inside your house. See information on our foundation spray.
We offer many payment options for your benefit. Choose from prepaying (discount offered), invoiced at time of service (mail in check), equal monthly payment plans (monthly statement sent by mail), or call in your credit card.
Signing up is easy. Just call our office and request the services you want. If we haven’t estimated your lawn, your personal technician will be out the next day to give you a free estimate on your lawn and/or trees.
It’s just a phone call away. Notify us at least a day before your scheduled application, and let us know what day is better for you.
Good soil does contain particles of clay, sand, and silt, however sand does not improve clay soil. Adding sand to clay makes cement! To improve any soil, always add organic matter.
After each lawn application, we leave behind a “comeback” card which has the date of your next scheduled application. If you would also like to have a phone call as a reminder, just let us know. If you have misplaced your card, just give our office a call.
There are many companies that provide lawn care services. We are confident that you will be pleased with the high level of service and quality that Moore Green provides. Our knowledgeable employees have years of experience in lawn care and most are pursuing or have completed college degrees in ornamental horticulture. We pride ourselves on providing information on the services we perform without being over-bearing through telemarketing. We work as partners with you in achieving the best results. Our easy payment options and customizable programs are excellent for anyone wanting to get a beautiful yard without the hassle.
It is best to have watered the application in, at least once, before mowing. If a granular application was applied, mowing can be done anytime.
Generally you should wait 6 hours after an application before watering. Applications with weed-killer should be left to dry for 24 hours for the best results. Applications with fertilizer only can be watered in anytime. Watering instructions are left behind after each application. Just look inside the bag that we hang on the door. You will find the instructions along with some information about that application.
A better question would be, how much should I water my lawn?
Irrigation is measured in inches, not time. Sprinkler systems differ at the amount of water that comes out. Systems should be adjusted according to temperature and precipitation. During our hot summer, 95+ degrees F, 2.5″-3.0″ of water should be applied per week. Depending on your soil type, you can water anywhere from 0.25″-1.00″ per watering. To learn how to measure the water from your sprinkling system, visit our How To page.
As a courtesy, after each application, we leave behind a “comeback card” which gives you the date of your next lawn application. If you like a phone call a day or two before the application, call us or talk to your personal lawn technician.
As a precaution, we prefer that your pets are kept off of treated areas until they have completely dried. If your pet has a known allergy to any lawn care product, please let us know so that we can take the necessary precautions. We choose products that have little or no adverse effect to animals or humans.
Aeration is very beneficial for turf areas that are struggling from compaction, poor drainage, and heavy thatch. We recommend that residential lawns be aerated once a year unless problems are more serious. Sandy soils may not need aeration once a year.
Our first application consists of a pre-emergent herbicide to prevent annual weeds such as crabgrass and spurge. Crabgrass germinates when soil temperatures reach over 60 degrees F (from April 15-May 10). We apply the pre-emergent before crabgrass germinates, but not too early that it may become ineffective for spurge (germinates May-June). Along the Wasatch Front, February applications are ineffective. Most lawns are still in dormancy and will not absorb most of the nutrients. For early spring green-up, the late fall application is best. Moore Green strives to give the most value for your dollar on all of our applications. Unfortunately, companies do exist that try to fit in as many applications as possible, hoping to get more money for their service.
It’s not necessary to hold off your first application until the Weber water is turned on. The cool temperatures and moisture that we receive in spring provide excellent growing conditions for turf. If you prefer to wait, call our office and reschedule.
We begin our lawn applications around March 20th.
Spring and fall are excellent times to plant grass seed. For Kentucky bluegrass, temperatures should be around 80 degrees F. For details on how to plant grass seed, see our How To section.
The best time to water your lawn is early morning. This way the turf can absorb the water before it is evaporated during mid-day temperatures. Nighttime watering is discouraged because this may create an ideal environment (cool and wet) for diseases to develop.
When done correctly, mulching is better. Recycling the nutrients back into the soil is a good practice.
Once borers have entered the tree, little can be done. Once damage has been done, it can not be reversed. The key? Prevention. See information on borer applications.
Many companies offer applications, like dormant oil, to prevent cankerworm infestations. However, this does little in prevention. Due to the unpredictable egg-laying of the female cankerworm, it’s difficult to time any preventative treatments. Therefore, preventative applications may not work. See information on cankerworms.
Two applications that can effectively reduce large outbreaks of aphids are a dormant oil application and tree injection. They should be applied before large infestations have occurred. See Dormant Oil. See Tree Injection.
Grass clippings do not make good mulch for roses. They can become matted together and not allow air to dry out the clippings. The clippings often become moist, which will cause the roses canes to rot. Bark mulch works much better.
If it’s fall time, it’s okay. If the leaf should be green and it’s not, more than likely it is iron chlorosis. Other possibilities are spider mites, over-watering, or diseases. Walk through our online diagnostic clinic.
Aphids are very persistent and can move from plant to plant. During heavy infestations, more than one application is often necessary. See information on our Aphid Spray.
Although lawns benefit greatly from a late fall fertilizer, trees and shrubs do not. The fertilizer, which is mainly nitrogen, encourages new shoot growth in woody plants. Encouraging new growth at the end of the growing season may allow a greater chance of winter damage. Late fall pruning is also not recommended, unless the branches are damaged or my break to a heavy snow load.